Saturday, October 26, 2013

Small Victories

I've heard over and over again that surviving in Peace Corps is all about lowering expectations. This isn't meant to be a bad thing. What's happening is that our lofty goals of changing the world are smacked around by reality. Goals go from erasing illiteracy in Maputu to passing 70% of your 10th graders. Ya know, things that are actually possible.

For me, the biggest struggle/fear is language. I really believed that the magical Peace Corps training would have me fluent by the end of 10 weeks in a language I knew VERY little. Now, with the training almost half way over, my expectations are going to have to change. Maybe I won't be fluent by the end of 10 weeks, but I'll be able to give lessons, or at least with a script. I won't be able to talk about philosophy, but I'll ask about the weather, or maybe, I'll be able to buy food. Maybe I'll be fluent after 1 months in service. 6 months? A year?

The point is, I don't know. Fluency is this transient thing between me and happiness. Every time I think I'm progressing, I'm faced with another word I don't know, or pronunciation I keep forgetting, or conjugation I mess up.

Rather than be overwhelmed by the impossibility of fluency within 10 weeks, I'm deciding to celebrate the small stuff. For example, today I bought phone credit by myself. Usually, this is a simple process of just finding a guy wearing a yellow vest, saying "vodacom" and handing him 50 MT. BUT this time was different. I found out our neighbor sells credit, so rather than walk all the way over to the Supermercado, I can go next door. BUT it's not that simple. I've discovered that our "neighbor" is actually a small village, and there's about 5 small houses behind a large house. (Who knew?!) I'm sure you're dying to know how I pulled off this very do-able task.

First, I asked my sister what's the name of our neighbor that sells credit. Como se chama nosso vencina que vende credito?

After asking her to repeat the name, I asked if she knew if the neighbor was home and if I could visit her. Conhece si esta ale? Esta bom si eu visita?

M replied that it was fine, and after repeating the name (I've forgot it) I walked over. I passed the large fence and entered through the driveway. It looks like your average house until you pass the garage and see a stretch of cement houses; then your realize it's an entire community.

I saw a woman washing laundry. Before asking if the neighbor was here, I did the obligatory hello how are you questions. Ola, como esta? Tudo bem aqui. Obrigada. Eu estou a buscar para "Name". Eu prefero comprar credito.

The woman very clearly said "She's right here," and from behind a corner out popped the neighbor that sells credit. I had met her once before with my irmao. She came over to me and asked what I needed. Tem doscentos para Vodacom? I spoke in a complete sentence!!

I even introduced myself as we completed the transaction and went on my merry way. It was a simple conversation but I had no friend, no mae, no irmao to step in if I need them. Victory!

Love love love

P.S. Sorry for the missing accents. My teacher would not be very happy right now, but I don't know how to type them in blogspot, or word. I'm working on it :)


Sunday, October 20, 2013

How to Take a Bath.

I bet you thought you knew how to take one. You probably thought you mastered this basic need back in elementary school. However, I'm here to tell you, you have no idea how to take a bath.

First, is to get over this.
Be it a rusty indoor tub, or outdoor basin. That is where you are taking a bath. Be there toad, cockroach, or big-ass spider. This is where you are taking a bath.

Next, is to heat your water. My preferred method is to not be the first person up. Others have learned to start a fire and wait.

Third, you grab the hot panela with a burned, faded rag, while your Mae repeats "Cuidado, cuidado" as you pour the boiling water into your bacia (basin). Also, don't think about the last time the basin was cleaned, or what it was used to clean.

Fourth, set the basin down in the tub and balance your towel and clothes on the shelf. Pray all of your things don't go tumbling into the dirty toilet water.

Fifth. Fill your copo (or the bottom half of a pop bottle) with your bath water and rinse hair and body. Soap, Soap, Soap and more Soap.

Sixth, repeat rising technique.

Seventh, scrub feet on the rock you found in the driveway.

Eight, wrap up in your towel, covering your shoulders with a kapulana if necessary. You're living with a family after all.

Finally, if you don't feel that clean, remember that here in Mozambique, tomar um banho (to take a bath) is done before breatfast and dinner, so you've got another bath in about 10 hours!

That's it! Happy Bathing!

Tuesday, October 15, 2013

Things Mozambique Has Not Changed About Me

Whether it's a good thing or not, I think all people who uproot their lives in order to move to a place known for poverty and illiteracy (amongst other amazing, positive things, but not my point right now) must want something to change. And when we (I) dramatically change our (my) surroundings, it's most likely because we are looking to change, or improve, ourselves.

Yet, going into my third week of training, there are a few traits of mine that I can't seem to shake. Which leads me too…

Top 10 Things Mozambique Has Not Changed About Me

10. I still root for the Detroit Tigers - Even at 5 am in the morning.

9. I'm uncomfortable in large groups. Doesn't seem to matter what language they're speaking.8. I loose/steal pens. I came with 3 from the hotel in Maputo and the one (ONE!) the PC gave us. I'm down to one I stole from a friend.

7.I can't seem to wake up early enough to do yoga. Yet I am up early enough to tomar cha (take tea).

6.I don't look where I'm going. Despite the chapas and lack of sidewalk.

5. I still don't iron my clothes the night before. When will I learn?

4. I'm still not the cool sister. My irmao: "Do you have a soccer ball?" Me: "No" Irmao: "Do you have games on your computer?" Me: "No" Me: "Do you want to read children's books with me?"

3. I still don't put my things away or close drawers/suitcases. Even after I found a toad in my room.

2. I still have to return to the house at least twice before finally leaving for school because I forgot my keys, water bottle, textbook, etc.


And, THE NUMBER ONE THING MOZAMBIQUE HAS NOT CHANGED ABOUT ME...


1. I still don't speak Portuguese. Working on that.


Thursday, October 10, 2013

Engluese

I'm now in the middle of my second week in Namaacha.

Things are going as well as can be expected. I haven't had to kill my food. I haven't exposed myself to my host family. And, I haven't asked for more balls instead of tomatoes. I even feel confident that I will be speaking Portuguese by the end of my 10 weeks.

Right now it's more of a combination, English+ Portuguese= Engluese. (If you haven't figured that out.) I am very lucky to have a great teacher and to work in a small group. In fact, it's just me and one other person. I think you can guess what level I'm in from that piece of information.

When I'm not in language classes, or sitting through a large PC meetings, I'm hanging out with my host family. My Mae (mom) is a retired teacher. She is very patient with me and really tries to understand my broken Portuguese. I have two older sisters that work outside of the house; L is a teacher and C is a janitor. The two of them occasionally talk to me, but more than once our conversations have ended with "No Entendo" and we both just leave it at that.

There are also 3 younger kids in the house Lay (10), E (8) and D (5). Lay has started to speak with me more, but our conversations usually end with him asking if I have something for him. FIrst it was playing cards, then a laptop (just to see, not to have), and lastly was a soccer ball. I didn't have the last one; we haven't talked lately. I cannot understand a word that D says and whenever I speak he shrieks with laughter.

E didn't not say one word to me for the entire first week. Which of course means I made it my goal to be best friends with her before I leave. She does answer my questions now, and she even came into my room to read a book with me. Progress!!

It's hard to spend much time with my host family though. The Peace Corps schedules so much of my day it's hard to really sit and comprehend what a different world I'm in. Occasionally I'll get these small, fleeting moments when I remember I'm in Africa. That I am over 9,000 miles away from home and it will be 2 years before I can hug my mom again. Moments like when I'm waking up to the sounds of dogs barking and my Mae sweeping the yard. Or when I'm mixing cold water into the hot water heated for my bath. These moments always sneak up on me, but I'm always glad to be reminded of the dramatic change I've made. And to feel like this was the best decision to make.

I'll end with this. Please send me emails! I want to know what's going on with my friends and family. Access to the internet depends on a lot of things. For example, I now have of a modem, but my computer is about to lose it's charge. But there is only one available outlet in the house (and that's a long story). So send emails so I still feel apart of your lives!

Love Love Love

Rayna