September 25th marked my one-year
anniversary in Mozambique. I struggled through two months of training and for
the past ten months I have called Pemba, the provincial capital of Cabo Delgado,
my home. I figure now is as good of a time as any to reflect.
Reflect on what? I have no idea. I
have had no great epiphanies. The “OMG I live in Africa” moments are frequent
and random. The most recent one occurred when I was learning how to needle
point with my REDES group.
Every time I sit down to write a blog,
I know I will fall short of trying to explain Mozambique. You can read all the
books, all the blogs and you will have very little idea of what it is like to
live in Mozambique. I can explain carting water, but you can’t feel the bucket
pushing onto your scalp. I can describe xima, but you won’t feel the grains
between your fingers. I can photograph my young neighbor, but you can’t hear her laugh. You can look at maps, but you will never know what it’s like to stand
on the sandy street and feel so disconnected from everyone around you.
I cannot explain Mozambique because I
don’t even know Mozambique. There is an enormous wall mudded with languages,
cultures, and history that I will never be able to scale. I will never be able
to accurately communicate my experiences here because I cannot fully explain
them to myself.
Before I fall down the endless pit of deconstruction, let me say one thing. I am happy. I know. Strange, right? But
this is what Mozambique (or maybe PC in general) does to you. You can discuss extending
for a third year or ET-ing (Early Termination) in the same breath and be
completely sincere about both options.
For me, at the moment, I am happy. There
are several reasons: friends, work…no bills. I have had more vacation in the
last 12 months than I did between 2008-2012. However, I think the most
important reason is that I don’t expect to save anyone.
I recently saw a post on FB that resonated with me. At the time I was getting frustrated with my work at
the school and my secondary projects. Then this gem fell into my lap,
"If you've come here to help me, you are wasting your time. But if you have come because your liberation is bound up with mine, then let us work together." Lilla Watson
This was the reminder that I needed. I
entered the Peace Corps with a very solid understanding that I was going for
myself and no one else. If you
are here to change or help others, you will be frustrated 99% of the time. Why?
Because most Mozambicans don't really want our help. And that's totally fair. Not to say what my work, or that of other PCVs, isn't important. But if my sole purpose for being here is to help in a completely altruistic sense of the word, then I am ignoring a lot of what this experience really is. Being in Mozambique, for me, is about the experience: I'm learning a second (maybe a third) language; I'm cooking food I never new existed; I'm learning about a new culture. Notice those are all benefits for me, not my host country. Mozambique is giving me way more than I will ever be able to give it. As long as I can remember this, I think I'll be ok.
Because most Mozambicans don't really want our help. And that's totally fair. Not to say what my work, or that of other PCVs, isn't important. But if my sole purpose for being here is to help in a completely altruistic sense of the word, then I am ignoring a lot of what this experience really is. Being in Mozambique, for me, is about the experience: I'm learning a second (maybe a third) language; I'm cooking food I never new existed; I'm learning about a new culture. Notice those are all benefits for me, not my host country. Mozambique is giving me way more than I will ever be able to give it. As long as I can remember this, I think I'll be ok.
So, one whole freakin’ year in
Mozambique. What is there to reflect on?
Well…
- Training is hell on earth.
- It’s ok to cry.
- Mozambicans peel their oranges with
a knife.
- Mozambique is beautiful.
- There’s also a lot of trash.
- Mozambicans will ask you for the
shoes on your feet. And they are serious.
- Pemba is hot as balls.
- My family is the most supportive
family ever.
- New Years really did happen.
- It is possible to learn a second
language, and maybe a third.
- Men are assholes anywhere you go.
- But there are also some incredible
men in this world, too.
- Hand-games are universal.
- Friendship is hard work.
- It’s ok to ask for help. In any
language.
- That time I cussed out a chapa
driver.
- Want to get to know someone? Cook
them food.
- That time a private ride turned into
4 boleias.
- Friends surprised me for my
birthday.
- I actually planned an event that
went smoothly.
- I’m a cat person?
- This is my life now.
love love love
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