Pemba: Not the Africa You Were Expecting

Ok, admit it. When I told you I was going to live in Africa for two years, what did you picture? A grass roof hut? Dirt floor? Cooking on a coal fire? Miles away from my closest neighbor?

Honestly, so did I.

In fact, I was looking forward to it. I pictured myself carrying buckets of water on my head, building a fire, and growing my own food. I knew it would be lonely, frustrating and (until I built up the muscles in my neck) painful. But I had this desire to say, "I did it...I lived… I survived… I thrived in Africa."

But that Africa is not Pemba.

I live in a gated community with the faculty of the school. My house has electricity, a fridge, a stove, and sometimes (SOMETIMES) running water. If the water isn't running there is a cistern in our backyard. Next door is the school, and next to that are the student dorms. Across the street is a bank, two corner stores, and a bar. Turn right and you're at the beach. Turn left and you're at the airport. At night I hear cars, music, and the intoxicated shouts of night dwellers. As I type this I can clearly hear Beyonce's "Video Phone" from across the street. During the day the night dwellers are replaced by crianças running from porch to porch. Chapas stop right outside the community entrance and is five minutes away from the city center. There I can find whatever I need, if I'm willing to pay the meticias.

If I was looking for a place where I would become a self-sufficient pioneer, well I would be 

disappointed. 

But I'm not! 

Instead of isolation I've found a lively, international, growing community. More importantly, instead of learning to be self-sufficient, I am learning to rely on my community.

I should also mention that my experience is a unique and chique experience. There are some volunteers who live in a grass roof hut, without electricity, and travel hours to the closest town, but the majority are somewhere in between. No matter where we live, all of us are learning to be a part of a brand new and unique community.

I can't wait to get to know my Pemba!

Love love love 

P.S. 

 A goat being slaughtered in my backyard. Note the spider as big as my face in the top left corner. 

As requested, photos of Pemba.

Here's the front of the house.

Here's the view of the street. The girl on the corner always over charges me on mangos. 

Side of the house. That's a cashew tree. Delicious. 

Here's the back of the house. 

Our neighbors. :) 

Our dining room. 

Our kitchen. This is where we spend most of our time. 

Our attempt at decorating: photos of family and friends. Down the hallway are the bedrooms (not clean enough to take pictures of today!) and bathroom. 

Living room. The couch is placed between the front and back door, making the perfect wind tunnel. You think about these things in Mozambique. 

Love love love, 

From Pemba 

Where am I now?

So this past week has flown by. Last Tuesday, all 51 volunteers loaded up and said good-bye to Namaacha. The town and our families have served us well for the past ten weeks. They taught us how to cook, clean, and kill our dinner. In return we played with the crianças and contributed to their economy. Specifically the bars, bajias (small bean patties that are sold on the side of the road), and black cat (popular brand of peanut butter).

We traveled (almost) directly to the U.S. Ambassador's house for swear-in. The house was three stories, with a pool, and an ocean view. I almost fantasized about living in such a beautiful house some day... but the electric fence and armed guards are not as appealing.

We were checked in to our hotel by 2pm, then had the rest of the afternoon to explore Maputo. I went with a small group of friends to a small cafe that is popular among volunteers, Café do Sol . It took us twice as long to get there because the Chappa first took us to a place called Costo do Sol. We would have realized we were going to the wrong direction if the five of us weren't squished into the front standing room only part of the van. But when we finally made it, I saw a cafe that looked similar to a Panera Bread; it could have been picked out of Birmingham and placed in Maputo.

That night I spent giving hugs and telling people, whom I won't be seeing for another year, things I should have told them much earlier. I am truly lucky and proud to be a part of Mozambique 21 and when I was faced with the prospect of not seeing most of these people for a year, I definitely got teary eyed. I cannot wait to see the amazing things that these people will do.

The next morning, PCVs going to the North and Central flew out of Maputo. Central flew to Chimoio, Maneca and North (that's what group I'm in) flew to Nampula. This is the second time I've been to Nampula and it was just as beautiful as the first. When the plane starts to descend, these strange rock formations seem to pop out of the ground. I'm not sure what they're called; I don't think mountains is the right word because these aren't a gradual rise. The clouds were also perfect for our entrance. You could see these thick white clouds floating mid-air with their shadows covering the ground immediately underneath them. I felt like a giant in a playground; I could run from mountain to mountain, cloud to cloud without touching the ground. 

But in the human world, we had our Supervisor's Conference on Wednesday/Thursday/Friday. Everyone met a representative from their school and we worked together to develop a plan of action to integrate into our community. My roommate Kris, will also be working as an English Teacher at the IFP. We met a fellow professor and neighbor, Pie. He worked closely with the former volunteers and gave us a lot of insight as to what our expectations are and what the school will be like.

Emotionally, there were a lot of up and down moments this week. However, at this point, the night before my trip to Pemba, I'm feeling excited and motivated. Earlier today I saw 10 volunteers leave for their site and start their journey. Now I'm ready for mine.

At US Ambassador to Moçambique's house. 

Flying in to Nampula. I'm sorry this photo doesn't do it justice. 

What is training?

Training, formação, is what attracted me to the Peace Corps. Only ten weeks to learn a language an change the world? Sign me up! …. Seriously, how did I get this far in life?

In reality, formação can be boring, exciting, difficult, joyful, stressful, pointless, overwhelming, terrifying, and exhilarating.
The usual week begins with two - four hours of language at a classmate's house. Language is completely immersive. Our teachers only speak Portuguese with us and if we ask a question in English they stare at us like we're crazy. Our teachers also happen to be some of the best trained teachers in all of Mozambique, several have studied in South Africa. So, in reality they all speak English fluently. But for 10 weeks they pretend they can't speak a word.

Language is usually followed by two - four hours of Tech training. This is where we tackle topics like "Teaching large classes" (you just do it) and "Gender Differences in Mozambique." (They exist). These are done with the other English trainees. We all live in the same barrio, so we are able to walk. Occasionally we are visited by the Math Trainees. I'd say one of the biggest frustrations of PCT is not being able to get to know all of the trainees. Once you get to Namaacha you train for 10 hours a day with the same people that live in your barrio. The only time we see the Science trainees is during I.F.P. days. On these days everyone gets together at a local training school for teachers for large lectures from Medical, Security, and Core (general PC information). Usually, at the end of these days, I walk home positive that I will end up with AIDS, die in a knife fight. or be sent home for not wearing a seatbelt. Honestly, after working with community organizations of various sizes, I am very impressed with how thorough and organized training has been.

Every week we have two current Volunteers help facilitate training and be available to answer questions. This, by far, has been the most helpful part of PCT. Volunteers are able to give us information, advice, and stories to help shape our vague idea of what our future will be like.

Training (supposedly) finishes at 5:30 everyday. That gives me 2.5 hours to complete homework, relax, and tomar banho before dinner with the family. Not every training experience is the same, and (i've heard) that the family home stay is unique to Mozambique. This has been another facet of training that is irreplaceable. It has NOT been easy adjusting to living with a Mozambique. However, it's hard to argue against home cooked meals and guaranteed playmates. However, however, I will be glad to be at my own place (in less than a week!).

On Saturdays we usually have some sort of activity like painting a mural! These are usually over before noon (the mural was not), giving us plenty of time to walk around the neighborhood and enjoy our time in Namaacha.

So, that's the general outline of training. There's no silver bullet or magic spell to the language. Just when I think I'm improving, I get that blank stare from my host sister. It's a stare that kills any sort of pride or motivation. And just when I think I'll never get it, my Mae asks me to get her the broom and I do it without thinking.

Training moves so quickly, that I can't mull over mistakes or worries. It's a train chugging along on predetermined tracks. Climb aboard.



Love love love.

The Little Things

The last two weeks of training have been spent at Model School. For six days, eighty school age children have woken up before 7am, during their summer vacation, to listen to 51 American butcher Portuguese. What could be the benefit to all of this?

Cookies. What else?

I'm not sure how the students have felt these (quasi) two weeks, but I'm having a blast. Being in front of the classroom finally feels natural. Something has aligned in the universe and it's pointing towards a blackboard. Four other English trainees and I were assigned the ninth grade. We have all taught atleast 3 classes. Ninth grade tends to be smaller then eighth and tenth because there are no national exams for the ninth grade. So I guess my five students really like cookies. I have already become attached to them. I brag about their progress, the jokes they make, and their good behavior. I have one student that speaks fluent English; she's originally from South Africa. I asked her the first day, "Why are you here? Do you have a volunteer for a brother or sister?" " No," she replied, "I just want to learn more."

whoa.

Today was the last day of Model School. We passed back our seven question test, certificates, and more cookies to the students. Then we just got to hang out and chatted with them. Of course, my Portuguese being the way it is, I wasn't able to have the best conversations, but at the same time the students were very patient with me and we were able to talk about Namaacha, America, and where I'll be living in Mozambique. Several students really cared about their grades, even though it has no effect of their actual school grade. There was a genuine interest to learn from every student, no matter the grade they earned.

             Students reviewing their test scores. 

These test have zero affect on their actual school grades. 

Escola Modela 9a Turma A 

I hope this doesn't sound too much like bragging, but I have to mention this. Two of my students (top picture) wrote me the nicest letters! One was from the student mentioned earlier, and another from a lower-level student that I hadn't talked with outside of class. I cannot believe how thoughtful those girls are! It really shows you that you never know where, when, or how you will impact someones life.

Love love love

Site Announcements

At this moment I have 4 other drafts waiting to be finalized and published for this blog. I want to tell people about training, site visits, and education in Mozambique, but right now there's only one thing on my mind. Site announcements. 

Tomorrow all 51 trainees will learn what community they will live and work in for the next two years. I'm nervous, excited, impatient, and terrified.

One year and four months ago I signed up to go wherever and whenever I was needed. For a year, I structured my life around this moment. I quit a full time job and worked 3 part time jobs to make ends meet. I moved with my parents, sold my car, and said so many goodbyes. I've sat through hours of tech training and lingua. I did all this to dedicate two years to a community  I don't know. And tomorrow I'll be given an envelope with the name of my new home. 

This day has shadowed the whole week. On Monday we had interviews with an APCD (Area Peace Corps Director) and turned in a 5 question survey on our preferences. The moment I was given the questionnaire I wished I hadn't received it. Why have us create expectations after training us not to have expectations? Until I filled out this survey I had no idea urban sites were even a possiblity. You mean electricity and running water are options?! The last question on the survey was, "If you had a magic wand to have anything at your site to make you happy, what would it be?" UGH. Well, I know bringing my nephew to Moçambique isn't an option so I ended up putting down " easy to travel to and from". The rest of the survey I left blank or gave vague answers. I can't say that I joined the peace corps because I have strong opinions about what I want to do. 

In the end, I gave up to the ability to choose where I live because I just want to go here I'm needed. 

As a reminder of why i'm here, Here's a picture of kids getting ready for breakfast at a local orphanage. That's also another blog post I'm working on.

Love love love 

Small Victories

I've heard over and over again that surviving in Peace Corps is all about lowering expectations. This isn't meant to be a bad thing. What's happening is that our lofty goals of changing the world are smacked around by reality. Goals go from erasing illiteracy in Maputu to passing 70% of your 10th graders. Ya know, things that are actually possible.

For me, the biggest struggle/fear is language. I really believed that the magical Peace Corps training would have me fluent by the end of 10 weeks in a language I knew VERY little. Now, with the training almost half way over, my expectations are going to have to change. Maybe I won't be fluent by the end of 10 weeks, but I'll be able to give lessons, or at least with a script. I won't be able to talk about philosophy, but I'll ask about the weather, or maybe, I'll be able to buy food. Maybe I'll be fluent after 1 months in service. 6 months? A year?

The point is, I don't know. Fluency is this transient thing between me and happiness. Every time I think I'm progressing, I'm faced with another word I don't know, or pronunciation I keep forgetting, or conjugation I mess up.

Rather than be overwhelmed by the impossibility of fluency within 10 weeks, I'm deciding to celebrate the small stuff. For example, today I bought phone credit by myself. Usually, this is a simple process of just finding a guy wearing a yellow vest, saying "vodacom" and handing him 50 MT. BUT this time was different. I found out our neighbor sells credit, so rather than walk all the way over to the Supermercado, I can go next door. BUT it's not that simple. I've discovered that our "neighbor" is actually a small village, and there's about 5 small houses behind a large house. (Who knew?!) I'm sure you're dying to know how I pulled off this very do-able task.

First, I asked my sister what's the name of our neighbor that sells credit. Como se chama nosso vencina que vende credito?

After asking her to repeat the name, I asked if she knew if the neighbor was home and if I could visit her. Conhece si esta ale? Esta bom si eu visita?

M replied that it was fine, and after repeating the name (I've forgot it) I walked over. I passed the large fence and entered through the driveway. It looks like your average house until you pass the garage and see a stretch of cement houses; then your realize it's an entire community.

I saw a woman washing laundry. Before asking if the neighbor was here, I did the obligatory hello how are you questions. Ola, como esta? Tudo bem aqui. Obrigada. Eu estou a buscar para "Name". Eu prefero comprar credito.

The woman very clearly said "She's right here," and from behind a corner out popped the neighbor that sells credit. I had met her once before with my irmao. She came over to me and asked what I needed. Tem doscentos para Vodacom? I spoke in a complete sentence!!

I even introduced myself as we completed the transaction and went on my merry way. It was a simple conversation but I had no friend, no mae, no irmao to step in if I need them. Victory!

Love love love

P.S. Sorry for the missing accents. My teacher would not be very happy right now, but I don't know how to type them in blogspot, or word. I'm working on it :)